Tubeless Sealant Calculator

How much tubeless sealant should I put in my tyres?

The correct amount depends on tyre volume, not just tyre width. A 700c × 28mm road tyre needs 30–40ml per tyre. A 700c × 40mm gravel tyre needs 50–70ml. A 29" × 2.2" MTB tyre needs 90–120ml. Using too little sealant means punctures may not seal. Too much adds unnecessary weight and can pool asymmetrically inside the tyre. The calculator estimates volume from your tyre size and brand recommendations.

How often should I top up tubeless sealant?

Most sealants need topping up every 3–6 months. Latex-based sealants (Stan's NoTubes, Orange Seal) dry faster in hot, dry conditions and may need checking every 2–3 months in summer. Check by removing the valve core and inserting a thin wire — if liquid coats the wire, sealant is still active. Dried sealant appears as white crumble inside the tyre. Top up with half the original amount when refilling.

What is the difference between tubeless sealant brands?

Stan's NoTubes uses natural latex and seals most punctures quickly but dries relatively fast (3–4 months). Orange Seal is more concentrated and claims longer life (4–6 months) with slightly less volume needed. Muc-Off Tubeless Sealant is latex-free (better for latex allergies) and claims to seal larger holes. Generic sealants work adequately for smaller punctures but may not handle larger cuts. Brand choice matters less than using the correct amount and topping up regularly.

What size holes can tubeless sealant seal?

Tubeless sealant reliably seals punctures up to approximately 4–6mm diameter. Small thorns, glass fragments, and wire typically seal instantly as you continue riding — you may not even notice. Larger cuts (6–12mm) sometimes seal with multiple rotations of the wheel or by pressing the tyre against the ground. Cuts above 10–15mm usually require a tyre plug before sealant can seal them. Sidewall cuts are much harder to seal than tread punctures.

How do I set up tubeless tyres at home?

You need tubeless-ready rim and tyre, tubeless rim tape, a tubeless valve, sealant, and a high-volume pump or compressor. Tape the rim bed carefully — overlapping and airtight. Install the valve. Mount the tyre dry. Pour sealant through the valve hole (remove the valve core first). Reinstall the valve core. Inflate quickly to seat the bead — this often requires a floor pump with a large chamber or a CO2 cartridge for the initial seating. Rotate to distribute sealant.

Can I use any tyre and rim for tubeless?

No. Both the rim and tyre must be tubeless-ready (marked TR, TLR, or TCS). Standard clincher rims lack the bead hooks designed to hold tubeless pressure. Standard clincher tyres have porous casing that sealant cannot fill. Using non-tubeless-ready components is dangerous — the tyre can blow off the rim. Check both components for tubeless compatibility markings before attempting a tubeless setup.

How do I know if my tubeless sealant has dried out?

Remove the valve core and insert a thin zip tie, spoke, or wire into the valve hole. Rotate the wheel so the valve is at the bottom. Pull out the wire — if it is coated with milky or yellowish liquid, sealant is still active. If the wire comes out dry or with white flakes, the sealant has dried. You can also squeeze the tyre walls — dried sealant creates stiff patches or rattling when you shake the wheel. Top up immediately if sealant is low or dry.

What happens if I run tubeless without enough sealant?

With insufficient sealant, small punctures will not seal and you will lose air rapidly. The tyre may also be more prone to burping at low pressure because the bead area is not adequately coated. In cold weather, sealant moves to one side of the tyre and may not reach a puncture quickly enough. Always use the recommended amount and check sealant levels every 3 months. Carry a plug kit and CO2 for punctures that sealant cannot seal.